In this episode Fiona discusses the exploitation of Refugee Models by the Fashion Industry. She is a student journalist with us on a placement organised by the Oxford University Career Services. This article was edited using the Hemingway Editor.
🎧 listen to Fiona’s backstory here - she discusses her motivation & research as well.
Runway or Run Away: Unveiling the Exploitation of Refugee Models in the Fashion Industry
Defined by fleeting trends and ephemeral fads. The fashion industry struggles to establish enduring constants, save for one: scandal. Scandal remains a timeless staple in the industry’s capsule wardrobe. With controversial headlines. Spanning from the romanticisation of eating disorders to workplace sexual harassment. The fashion industry is well acquainted with adverse publicity. Yet, the latest scandal stands out with its intricate nuances and ethical ambiguities. Which distinctly set it apart from previous incidents.
The most recent controversy. European modelling agencies actively recruiting models from African refugee camps. These agencies are scouting young people who have fled war torn African countries. And are living in extreme poverty. For these refugees, a career in modelling could pave the way to greater opportunities. Provide better living conditions and a chance to rebuild their lives. At face value, this may seem like a mutually advantageous arrangement. With refugees gaining financial security and enhanced prospects. While modelling agencies benefiting from increased ethnic diversity in their hires. In reality, this purportedly symbiotic relationship falls short of true symbiosis. The power imbalances within this dynamic become obvious when modelling contracts collapse. Refugees, bearing the weight of unmanageable debt are often repatriated to their camps.. While modelling agencies emerge unscathed. This power disparity creates opportunities for exploitation.
The Quest for a ‘New Look’
For decades, Eurocentric features have dominated catwalks. However, as certain looks continuously cycle in and out of fashion. The industry, too, must keep pace. Fuelled by a growing demand for inclusivity. The fashion world is now casting a spotlight on African models for a representation that is both fresher and more diverse.
Carole White, director at Premier Model Management and former agent of Naomi Campbell. She comments on this shift in the industry: “At the moment it is very fashionable to have an African model. Sudanese are very much in demand. There is so much demand for African models: women, men, boys, and girls.” A similar observation was also shared by Mari Malek. A former refugee and successful South Sudanese model. She says “South Sudanese refugee models are the ‘it girls’, and I believe it is due to the fact the diversity and inclusion movement in the fashion industry has skyrocketed demand from people asking for more representation.”
Both agent and model alike agree on the surge in demand for African models. Attributing it to the fashion industry’s heightened focus on diversity and inclusion.
The next pressing question at hand is the ethical sourcing of these models. What toll do inclusion policies take on young African lives. At what cost are these strides toward diversity fulfilled?
Kakuma Refugee Camp
Top fashion agencies are now scouting models from Kakuma. One of the world’s largest refugee camps in north-western Kenya. The refugee camp has been overseen by the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) since 1992. The camp is currently home to over 280,000 people. More than half of the refugee populace come from South Sudan. A place where millions have been killed and displaced due to civil and tribal warfare. Another large subset of the refugee population hails from Ethiopia. Due to government collapse locals are compelled to flee, and seek refuge.
The camp is situated in Kenya’s second – poorest region, Kakuma. Which faces unique challenges. Exacerbated by the prevailing economic hardships and limited resources in the area. Basic living conditions include mud-brick houses with corrugated iron roofs. Rationed water, scarce electricity, and rampant illnesses.
In the face of such challenging living conditions and an unpredictable environment. It comes as no surprise that refugees grasp any available opportunity. The young women and men in Kakuma are desperate for a chance to break into modelling as a means of escape. When opportunities arise, resisting them may seem unwise. Faced with the choice between persisting in their current survival mode. Or taking a risk to seek better prospects elsewhere, the latter becomes the obvious pick. Simultaneously, agencies scouring talent from the camp emphasise that recruiting from Kakuma not only provides refugees with a better chance at life. But also significantly contributes to diversifying catwalks. But do refugees actually attain the better life promised to them?
The Grass Isn’t Always Greener
The model recruitment process mirrors the erratic, and swift nature of the fashion world. In its initial stage, luck plays a decisive role. Identifying models suited for the industry is a daunting task. Agencies enforce stringent criteria. Requiring models to meet precise measurements, sizes, and other specifications. Consequently, the pursuit of the next ‘it girl’ becomes increasingly competitive. Some of the scouts are based locally. Searching for potential talent by capturing photos of refugees and forwarding them to European bosses. Who are located thousands of miles away. While other scouts opt for a more digital approach. They take to refugees’ Instagram accounts. Discerning their suitability through the online platform.
Models successfully navigating the initial recruitment phase are granted government approved work permits. Facilitating their departure from the refugee camp to Nairobi. In the capital city, they obtain passports and visas. Which pave the way for their journey to Europe. Upon arrival, accommodation is arranged. And they receive a weekly allowance. Ranging from seventy to one hundred euros to manage expenses. But those who fail to secure sufficient paid work. Or are judged as unfit for the industry find themselves returning to Kenya. Not every scouted model is destined for runway fame. In fact, the majority will encounter challenges in securing paid opportunities. Recruitment offers no assurance of attaining stardom. Financial stability, or permanent residence in Europe.
Several Scouted refugees can experience a profound sense of disillusionment. When they realise they have become ineligible for specific jobs locally. , Despite having travelled to another continent and briefly tasted Western opportunities. Similarly, others feel a sense of betrayal when compelled to sign contracts without a complete understanding of the terms. Tales of refugee modelling nightmares are not as rare as one might hope.
Exemplifying the harsh realities of refugee modelling. Achol Malual Jau’s story is a poignant illustration. Jau spent six months in Europe from September 2022 to March 2023. Making her debut as a model at London Fashion Week. Prior to her runway debut in February. Jau had perfected her heel-walking skills at the refugee camp. , She characterised the experience as “amazing”. Yet, in just six months, she returned to her shared hut with her family. And confronted by a balance sheet disclosing a debt of three thousand euros. The agency responsible for recruiting Jau was Select Model Management. Which claimed that client feedback on her had been less than favourable. Amidst shattered dreams and her return to Kenya. Jau grappled with the weight of substantial debt. She even claimed: “I worked hard but came back with no money. A lot of people think I have money because I went to Europe, I say I have nothing.” Achol Malual Jau’s modelling success at London Fashion Week swiftly transformed into a stark tale of financial exploitation. It revealed the unsettling underbelly of the industry. She now grapples with debt and shattered aspirations.
Unfortunately, other refugee models have been met with similar difficulties. Nyabalang Gatwech has a story that is almost identical to Jau’s. Gatwech was scouted by Isis Models. A London-based agency that had been working closely with Select for almost a decade. She only spent seventeen days in Europe modelling. Then having to return to Kakuma camp in Kenya. Just three weeks later. She received an email from Select, stating that she owed the agency approximately 2,500 euros.
Another refugee model signed a contract she barely understood. She was flown to Paris, but her trip abruptly ended after seventeen days. She later discovered debts exceeding two thousand euros to her agency.
Another refugee who was flown out to Paris was deemed ‘too malnourished to work’ and ‘inadequate at catwalk skills.’
An Ethical Mess
In the context of refugee models. Exploring the phenomenon through the framework of Dr. Kenneth’s The 7 Fundamental Human Needs could offer valuable perspectives. These needs are listed as:
Safety/security and survival
Understanding
Connection (love) and acceptance
Contribution/ Participation
Esteem, Identity, Significance
Self-determination (Autonomy), Freedom, and Justice
Self-actualisation and self-transcendence
In the sphere of refugee models. There is an evident compromise on human needs, particularly numbers 1 and 6.
The first human need is compromised. As refugees often find themselves in positions of financial instability and insecurity. European agencies are quick to burden refugees with debt. If they fail to secure adequately paid jobs. Refugees are not supported but exploited. Agencies take advantage of their financial illiteracy. Make them sign contracts they do not fully comprehend, ultimately leaving them indebted.
Human need number 6 is defined as “the need to direct the affairs of our own lives. This includes the need for freedom and justice.” Refugee models may perceive limited agency in choosing their collaborators. They may also feel they have to accept any opportunity presented.
American model, Carré Otis. Who has worked alongside supermodels like Linda Evangelista, Carla Bruni, and Naomi Campbell. She responds to the unethical treatment of refugee models. “The investigation into refugee models shows we have reached a tipping point and a new low which is affecting some of the most vulnerable people on the planet. Sadly, the deafening silence now is indicative of what we have experienced for decades.”
Any Success Stories?
Although many refugees are unsuccessful in the industry. There are a select few that manage to escape the cycle of poverty and make a name for themselves. Among those who have defied the odds is Mari Malek. Malek, a South Sudanese supermodel, DJ and activist based in New York. She is celebrated for her triumphs in the fashion industry and as DJ Stiletto. Beyond her artistic prowess. She is also recognised for her humanitarian work. She established Runways to Freedom. A group that supports refugees working in the fashion industry and founder of Stand for Education, Inc.. A charity organisation providing access to education for underprivileged children and empowering girls. As a global ambassador,. She leverages her platform to raise awareness about pressing social issues. Malek demonstrates that success is achievable in the industry even as a refugee. Offering hope to the despondent.
Conclusion
Clearly, a need for change is evident. Refugee models deserve better care and support. ,While modelling agencies should formulate clear contracts. Ensuring full comprehension of all terms and conditions by their employees. The power imbalances between employers and employees ought to be rebalanced. This will restore greater equilibrium. The prioritisation of refugees’ human needs is essential for their well-being. Along with a foundation for a secure future. Nyabalang Gatwech echoes this sentiment:
“If the world wants models from refugee camps, it should take care of them. We are not scum, we are human and need to be treated like humans, with dignity.”
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